Snippets from Abroad 013

Sitting in a boxing stadium, which sounds more grand than its den-like structure would justify:

After the Gathoey/Ladyboy/Transvestite (pick your immersion on Thai culture yourself) at the entrance has led me to my seat, which belongs to one of the seven or eight bars surrounding the fighting ring, I order myself a beer and enjoy the first match of the evening. It still feels a little weird to have paid money in order to watch two eight-year-olds kick the crap out of each other but this is just the opening match, the matches of the evening ascending in age and skill towards the main event and the fights of locals vs. foreigners. Giving a young fighter the chance to fight in front of a crowd early and often leaves to situations where a Muay Thai fighter reaching the age of twenty usually has hundreds of actual matches under his belt, something most Western boxers can only dream of. The kids fight far less controlled than their older colleagues but despite being very forward, throwing kicks more often than punches (which is the other way around with more experienced fighters), they never get carried away, there is always gestures of sportsmanship and a smile after the fight. I like that, myself finding the thing most US Heavyweights do ridiculous and WWF-worthy at best. No "I'll rape your wife and eat your children!" here. There are two main events this night, one fight between a French man named Mehdi, who has drawn quite a crowd of French fans (who will, after his surprising victory in the fifth and last round of the match, break out the Marseillaise) and a local fighter, and then two experienced and skilled Thai fighters. The last fight ends with the guy who was being beat up all fight starting to fight back in the fourth round and defeating his opponent by knockout despite his bruised and swollen face. A spectacular night. As I leave the stadium, it's raining so I decide to take a Tuk Tuk. I tell the driver, where I want to go and on the way he asks me, having noticed my Thai, if he shall take me to a place with nice ladies. I point out my ring and politely tell him off. Next time I'll just bring an umbrella.